I build every wheel to my standards on my timeframe with evenly tensioned spokes that have been thoroughly stress relieved. I guarantee my wheelbuilds against spoke breakage for the life of the wheel. (Follow link for details.) The wheels should need minimal truing if they ever need to be trued at all.
If you have a hub or rim in mind you don't see listed on my site, please contact me. As long as the part is of sufficient quality, I will special order anything I don't stock. Since my wheelbuilding backlog generally hovers around a week to two weeks, special ordering a hub or rim will rarely delay delivery of your wheels. In most cases the part will arrive by the time your wheelbuild makes it to the front of the queue.
I build rear wheels with the number of crosses appropriate for the number of spoke holes, hub flange diameter, and effective rim diameter. Front wheels can be built radially laced if the hub is approved for radial lacing. I don't build wheels with twisted spokes. I don't build wheels with elaborate cross patterns. Many of these patterns look interesting, and some of them are just as strong as traditional cross lacing, but I don't have time to thoroughly evaluate each proposed lacing pattern, and I have plenty of wheels to build as it is, so I stick with traditional cross and radial patterns.
Building with used hubs (yes), spokes, and rims (almost always no and no)
I will build wheels with used hubs provided by customers. I rarely build wheels with used rims or spokes. This isn't to say that good wheels can't be built with used rims or spokes. They can. But many times they can't and I can't tell by simply looking at a rim or spokes how much the material has been stressed and how close it might be to failure. I don't want you to ever have a problem with any wheel I've built you, and the best way for me to ensure this is to always use new rims and spokes. The one exception is vintage restoration wheels, which may need to use rims no longer in production. If you need a wheelbuild with vintage rims for a restoration or show bike contact me via email or telephone.
If you are sending me hubs . . .
To build with your hubs I need them to be reasonably clean and the bearings adjusted. If the bearings are too loose the rim will rock back and forth in the truing stand, and if they're too tight the wheel might not spin properly. Cleaning hubs and adjusting bearings is not included in the wheelbuilding labor price, so if I have to do it, you'll owe a little extra. Hubs are much easier to adjust when laced into a wheel, so I'd suggest getting the adjustment sorted out before removing hubs from an old wheel to ship to me. If you don't want to mess with all that I'm happy to adjust hub and overhaul them as necessary.
And please, please--don't send your quick release skewers. I know it seems like they go with your hub, but they aren't needed when building a wheel. They'll be okay without the hub for a while. If you ship skewers to me I have to set them aside and remember to put them back in the box when the wheel goes out.
Lastly, remove all cassettes, cogs, freewheels, lockrings, etc. before unlacing your wheel. In some cases you need the leverage of the wheel to remove the drivetrain component. If you'd like me to reattach the drivetrain component after building your wheel, send it along with your hub.